Hidden behind Mount Rokko lies Japan’s oldest hot spring town, Arima Onsen. Known for its golden and silver hot spring water, beautiful scenery and luxurious Japanese inns, Arima makes for a perfect getaway. I got to stay in one of Arima’s best Ryokans, Arimasansoh Goshobessho, and here is what it was like.
The world of hot springs and traditional inns should be experienced first-hand when visiting Japan. There’s nothing quite like it. Since Arima Onsen in Kobe, not far from Osaka and Kyoto, is Japan’s oldest hot spring town, it’s a great places to experience this unique part of Japanese culture.
I’m always looking for authentic, unique and special places to stay in Japan. So when I came across Arimasansoh Goshobessho in Arima, I knew this was a Ryokan I wanted to experience. The place is seeped in centuries of history, having been a temple from the 17th century. As it’s located in Arima’s most visited maple area, people used to stay in the temple, which turned into a hotel for foreigners during the Meiji Era. The current ryokan was established in 2007.
This mystical Japanese inn also houses the world’s first treehouse onsen. It’s shaped like a bird’s nest, tying in perfectly with the legend of the crows, the story of how Arima Onsen was founded.
Having stayed in the Ryokan, soaked in its onsens, enjoyed the exquisite culinary experience and spoken with the owners, I only have good things to say about it. Staying here is a truly unique experience, it’s a Ryokan that has its heart, passion and history in the right place.
If you are looking for the ultimate Ryokan experience in Arima Onsen, look no further than Arimasansoh Goshobessho. Below, I’ll share everything you need to know about this beautiful property, the impeccable service and mystical hot springs – this is one to add to your Japan bucket list.
* Disclaimer: My stay at Arimasansoh Goshobessho was part of a press stay. All views and opinions are my own.
Arimasansoh Goshobessho Highlights
Here is a quick overview of this stunning Ryokan’s main highlights:
- Home to the world’s first treehouse onsen, shaped like a bird’s nest to commemorate Arima’s origin story.
- Every room comes with a private onsen, as well as access to the Ryokan’s public onsen.
- The family who owns and runs this Ryokan has been doing so for at least 400 years. They have protected the enshrined statue of the Thousand-Armed Avalokitesvara (Goddess of Grace), the statue of Kiyomizu Temple.
- Along with other Ryokan owner friends, this family founded the Yado group. This group focuses on sharing an authentic and pure Japanese experience. Seeing how many authentic Ryokans are forced to close or be sold to bigger hotel corporations, this is such an important cause.
- Dinner and breakfast are out of this world, with only the best locally sourced ingredients from the sea and mountains of Kobe and Hyogo in Yamaga mountain style. All dishes have a slight Western influence, fitting with Kobe’s international history.
- This Ryokan has over 400 years of history, which started as a temple in the 17th century.
- It was the first hotel in Arima to welcome foreigners.
- Hirosuke Watanuki, the late artistic director of Goshobessho, was able to blend the Japanese and Southern Europe in his unique “Muhouan” style. His art can be found throughout the Ryokan.
History of Arima Onsen & Arimasansoh Goshobessho
As Nara, Kyoto and Osaka (three imperial cities) are located a stone’s throw away, the magical hot spring water of Arima Onsen has been enjoyed and appreciated by many famous and important names over the centuries.
Being the oldest hot spring town in Japan, and famous for its golden hot spring water, Arima Onsen is a great places to experience onsen and Ryokan culture. It has over 1,300 years of history.
Arima is located within the city boundaries of Kobe, a famous port city. When Japan reopened its borders to the world in the Meiji Era, Kobe became a settlement for many foreign merchants and diplomats. You can still find hints of this in the city itself, including the Kitano-cho district.
Because of this, Arima Onsen was the first to open its doors to foreign travellers in 1868. Arimasansoh Goshobessho (named Kyomizu Hotel at the time) played a big part in this – it was the first onsen resort that welcomed foreigners.
This Japanese inn started its history as a temple in the 17th century. Arima Kyomizu Temple stood tall for centuries before it was transformed into the Kyomizu Hotel. Its current form, as Goshobessho, came into existence in 2007, and is a sister facility of Arima Onsen’s oldest Ryokan, Tocen Goshoboh.
The inner gardens of the Ryokan are as tranquil and as beautiful as the interior. Stone paths meander along the calm stream and lush vegetation. Entering is like stepping into another world for a short period of time. And with such a rich history, it is best to soak in as much as possible.
Why Staying at an Authentic Ryokan is Important
Your money has power, and deciding where you spend it can make a big difference. Authentic Ryokans are struggling. They are on the decline, with many having had to shut their doors or sell their inns at alarming rates in recent years.
Large corporations are buying up struggling Ryokans, and turning them into money-making machines. If you’re not familiar with staying at a Ryokan, these can seem like you’re getting a once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, once you’ve stayed at an authentic Ryokan like Arimasansoh Goshobessho, the difference becomes clear as day.
The focus on preserving and promoting the original heritage of these special places is incredibly important.
An authentic Ryokan stay is more than just a room. It’s a full experience from arrival to check-out. These inns have been passed down from generation to generation, and the families who run them have a deep understanding of the local history and culture – it adds so much to the experience of the guests. This is a life’s work.
Together with a group of Ryokan owner friends, the family running Arimasansoh Goshobessho created the Yado Group. This group focuses on Ryokans who embrace the traditions, scenic landscapes and the best of their area.
The care that has been put into Arimasansoh Goshobessho truly shines through. The past generations that preserved this special place would have been proud of the current generation. Staying here as a guest doesn’t only give you a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but it also helps to fund the preservation of something truly authentic and special.
Our Stay at Arimasansoh Goshobessho
Arimasansoh Goshobessho can be found just outside the town centre, a 10-minute stroll from the train station. After a couple of hours of wandering through the town of Arima, I headed towards the place that turned out to be one of the best stays I’ve experienced in Japan.
It was a rainy February Thursday, and the Ryokan welcomed us with open arms, despite being a bit earlier than the planned check-in time. The reception area felt impressively open and warm – the tall ceiling made the room feel even larger than it seemed in the photos I’d seen online.
Soft music was playing and the library of books invited me for a browse – the complete works of famous Japanese novelist Jun’ichiro Tanizaki can be found here.
Jun’ichiro Tanizaki was a patron of Tocen Goshoboh, and has mentioned it in his works. The same managing family appreciates the aesthetics he spoke about in his works, particularly his famous essay “in Praise of Shadows“. In this essay, he talks about the Japanese beauty spirit, such as the blending of light and darkness. The Ryokan implements this, among other elements, in Goshobessho to this day.
We were welcomed with a hot towel, a cup of tea and a piece of cake while we waited for our check-in to be completed. The large windows allowed me to look out into the garden, where the rain made it seem even more magical and tranquil. Even though I had only just arrived, I could feel that this place was special.
Arimasansoh Goshobessho’s Rooms
The Ryokan has 10 guest rooms (villas, more like) available. All accommodations here have a similar traditional Japanese woodwork style, accompanied by modern furniture and idyllic forest views.
Staying here is like entering a little bubble of luxury – here, you can truly leave your worries behind and recharge.
Every room also comes with a private hot spring bath, as well as access to the public baths found at the Ryokan. All water entering the baths is fresh and undiluted spring water. No added minerals or saches, this is the real deal.
Especially because the town is famous for its golden water, containing high levels of iron and salt, it’s fantastic that this Ryokan gives you private access to it. The public baths are open until midnight and reopen again at 6 AM.
On top of that, every room is equipped with a thermal room. Steadily kept at body temperature, this room is the perfect place to recharge. Leaving your towels here to heat up while enjoying the onsen is another way to add that extra bit of comfort to your time here.
Corvo de Ouro – The World’s First Treetop Onsen
What stood out to me most before getting in touch was the treetop onsen shaped like a bird’s nest. It’s the most unique take on an onsen I’ve come across in my travels to Japan.
Legend says that the hot springs in Arima Onsen were discovered when two Gods saw three injured crows bathing in a puddle. After some time, the crows were cured, showing the Gods that this magical water had healing properties. Seeing how this beautiful and unique onsen plays on this legend is fantastic – it shows the deep understanding of the town and its history.
While the treetop onsen was the thing that had drawn me to this place, the room itself is one of the nicest I’ve had the luxury of staying in. The photos I’ve seen online and the ones I’ve taken myself hardly do it justice. It is incredible. The tall ceilings, the attention to detail and the spaciousness make it feel like one night is nowhere near enough to fully enjoy and experience it all.
At around 100 square meters, the room is more like a villa. Sliding doors can be used to cut off the bedroom from the living area, giving you some additional privacy.
The additional amenities show that bit of “extra” care you’re looking for in a top-end stay like this. Everything you could need has been thought of and provided before you could think of it.
In the bathroom, I found separate bags of amenities for men and women. Some sanitary towels were hidden in a small, delicate box next to the toilet too. Two yakutas were provided for both me and Richard – with different colours for male and female.
The underfloor heating makes every inch of the room comfortable to be in, and the humidifier helps maintain the air quality no matter the temperature. The thought and care that has been put into this place shrines through every inch of the room.
There is a small kitchen area which has free mineral water, teas and pour-over coffees. Additional drinks are available in the mini-fridge – you can pay for these at check-out.
In this area of the room, you can also find a small door for food and drink orders. Staff can place the order there from the outside of the room, so they don’t have to bother you. It again shows the thought that has gone into designing this place – comfort for the guests above all.
Obviously, the main highlight of this special place is the outdoor onsen shaped like a bird’s nest. It looks exactly like the photos – incredible. The golden spring water gushes out of the tap, constantly supplying this beautiful bath with fresh water from one of Arima’s hot spring sources.
As there is no roof to block the view from the outdoor onsen, you can fully soak in the beauty of the forest. Even in February, it was stunning. Despite the heavy rain during the evening of our stay, I still managed to dip into the onsen for a short while. After that, I headed back inside to enjoy the indoor bath.
This room has two hot spring baths: the outdoor bird’s nest bath and an indoor bath. Fresh, undiluted spring water is provided to the rooms and baths for each stay. The indoor bath can be filled around four times per day – we used it three times during our stay.
I loved that in both baths, you get the actual hot spring water. I’ve stayed in other Ryokans before where the private baths don’t have the spring water supply, and you’re provided a small sachet of minerals to add to your water. At Arimasansoh Goshobessho, you get the actual water – a big plus in my book.
The bathroom itself is designed not just to look great, but to be functional also. Next to the bath, you can find the shower where you can wash yourself before entering either onsen. Plus, the bath empties from the bottom, draining itself onto the floor, where it meets the drain in the middle of the room.
The thermal room next to the bathroom is kept at a steady 36 degrees Celcius, making it very comfortable to relax and recharge.
After multiple soaks in the hot spring baths and an impeccable meal, the comfortable beds topped with big, feathery comforters allowed for one of the best sleeps I had in months. Arimasansoh Goshobessho is more than a Ryokan, it’s a travel destination in itself.
Arimasansoh Goshobessho’s Gastronomy
No true Ryokan experience is complete without a special meal. And the meals I was served at Arimasansoh Goshobessho were some of the best I’ve ever had. The Ryokan has 10 counter seats in the main restaurant but also has the option to use one of the five private dining rooms.
The Ryokan prides itself on the culinary experience they offer their guests. With only the best local ingredients from the Hyogo prefecture, everything tasted fresh and filled with flavour. The “Yamaga Cuisine”, or mountain-style cuisine, fits perfectly with the authentic Ryokan experience you may be looking for.
We asked for our dinner to start at 6 PM, and when we arrived at the restaurant, we were guided to our private room. Our server, who spoke perfect English, explained all the dishes to us in detail. Any question we had about the food, the Ryokan or Arima Onsen was answered promptly by her.
The dinner consisted of eight courses. Some of them included snow crab mouse, fried filefish soup, sweet shrimp and abalone sashimi, roasted boar meat, rape blossom rice and the most delicious Tajima-Gro beef I’ve ever had – each dish was even more delicious than the last. I have had Kobe beef before, but this was another level.
The service is refined and it was clear that the staff has been trained comprehensively. Our server was ready for our next course as soon as we finished the previous one. We weren’t rushed whatsoever and were able to take our time enjoying every dish to the fullest.
On top of that, our private dining room looked out over the mountains. On the rainy February evening, it felt magical, like the ultimate honeymoon spot. I can only imagine how beautiful the trees would look in spring or autumn.
Each dish was put together to perfection. And for my husband, who doesn’t eat shellfish, special arrangements were made so he could enjoy every dish alongside me.
In the morning, breakfast was served in the same room. A more Western-style breakfast was laid out in front of us, capturing the culture of Kobe once again. It included pork sausages, turnip soup, freshly cut fruits, French toast, warm bread with honey and butter and more.
Breakfast was as memorable as dinner – an unforgettable experience that fitted perfectly with the rest of our stay here.
Arimasansoh Goshobessho’s Onsen
As mentioned previously, every room at Arimasansoh Goshobessho comes with a private bath. Most of them are indoor baths that you can fill up to your liking. The one room that comes with both an indoor and outdoor bath is the one I stayed in – which includes the iconic treetop onsen.
But the golden spring water, the symbol of Arima Onsen, can also be enjoyed in the public baths. Bottles of water and towels are provided at the entrance of the public baths.
Conclusion: The Best Arima Onsen Ryokan Experience
Arimasansoh Goshobessho is more than a place to stay the night. It is the ultimate luxury onsen experience in Japan’s oldest hot spring town. The exceptional reviews I read online before my stay have indeed been confirmed – this is the perfect place to unwind, recharge and get a taste of what it means to stay in a truly authentic Ryokan.
Goshobessho has figured out the perfect formula for a rural and authentic Japanese inn. The elegance and pride that come with having been with the same family for over 400 years add something invaluable to this place.
Even though time seemed to slow down during my time here, my only regret is not staying for an additional night.
If you are looking for the ultimate Ryokan experience in Arima Onsen, look no further.
